The TSA agent looked at Ben’s boarding pass. You been there before? he asked. No. It’s different. He looked almost pained. Just different. We followed impatiently the electronic map on the plane as it charted our course from San Francisco … Continue reading
Category Archives: travel
loose in the desert
The blacktop had that shimmering, mirage-like quality that comes from great heat and makes the distance look unreachable. The sky was a bluish white color that looked like there was no sky, no lid to our world. Despite mountains on … Continue reading
the edge of America
When you hear the phrase “the edge of America,” you probably don’t think of South Carolina. The Wild West, with its ever-expanding frontier, or the Pacific coast with its infinite water, Alaska, maybe, or Hawaii. Folly Island, outside of Charleston, … Continue reading
Valley of the Moon
There is nothing in the desert, and no man needs nothing. — Lawrence of Arabia Salah greeted me outside my hotel, wearing a small, brownish turban, a leather jacket and a thick, black mustache. Sleep deprived and fever addled, I … Continue reading
Half As Old As Time
“In the face of Petra’s riddles, reason becomes unreasonable, but magic grows commonplace.” Richard Halliburton, “The Enchanted City” It seems no work of Man’s creative hand, By labor wrought as wavering fancy planned; But from the rock as if by … Continue reading
across the border
I woke up early, sick, in a sterile, cold room by the Red Sea. I packed my backpack and trudged downstairs, leaving the key in the room. An open-backed Jeep awaited me. I pulled myself in as it took off … Continue reading
postcards from Tel Aviv
Tel Aviv, January 2012
one big desert
We went out for a walk at night. The bedouin tent village, with all the camels asleep in the paddock, faded behind us, the lights dimming past the dunes we crossed. Looking back it was a glint on the horizon … Continue reading
I don’t know what prayer is;
I do know how to pay attention
“[Jerusalem] exists in the past, as the capital of a lost civilization. It exists in the future as the portal to the next world. It exists everywhere but in the present. It’s where the past and the future overwhelm the … Continue reading
Innocents Abroad
It took more than a day to get from California to Israel, which only heightened the feeling of being far away. I was disoriented, as all travelers are, and we immediately boarded a bus that took us from Tel Aviv … Continue reading
American dispatches
30 October 2011, 11pm, between Philadelphia and D.C. There is an intimacy to the last row of a tiny puddle jumper in the dark of night, the arm rest up, a loveseat. Me and the boy with the big knees, … Continue reading
liminal seasons
I never knew if my birthday fell in summer or in fall. Every year it was different, sometimes tinged with the hot glare of summer, despite being stuck in school (which was always exciting, anyway); sometimes the leaves had already … Continue reading